X Fusion 02 Rc Manual

Since, The Tamiya TT02 has really established itself as the entry level kit of choice. Its strength and versatility means its a great starting car for any RC enthusiast who wants to experience the thrills and excitement that the RC hobby provides.Whilst the car doesn't pretend to be a top-end race chassis, over time many owners will want to venture to their local club to sample RC racing, so the following article will cover a range of upgrades and tips to make your TT02 become a better race car. Although other than bearings, none of the others are essential for you to go to your local club and take it for a spin. If you get the bug for racing then this guide will help you look at a range of options to improve various aspects of your car, as you improve your driving skills.Which TT02 is best for racing? This kit is sold as a drift spec, and whilst the car does not come with an ESC or bodyshell, it does come with oil shocks. It also comes with specially hardened A-Parts.

These are great as they give you strengthened versions of many of the key parts for the TT02 including Towers, Steering arms, Suspension blocks and uprights. You do not need to buy the TT02D to get these, you can order the part separately (Tamiya 19000614).Tamiya TT02 re-enforced A parts, part no 19000614 (This includes 2 in the set). Tamiya 84409 TT-02RThe best TT02 to buy if you want the flexibility of the platform intact.This is a limited edition TT-02 and it has a much higher spec than the TT02D for a race car and it is available at a similar price. This car has the std TT-02 suspension system so you can easily change the ride height and wheelbase. It also has rear aluminium 3 degree hubs which will make the car handle much better than a stock TT02. There are a range of other goodies stuffed in there such as the aluminium motor mount, high speed gear set, Alloy prop shaft and drive cups, ball races and CVA oil shocks.

The only thing this doesn't have is adjustable upper arms to allow you to get Camber adjustments. So this is the TT02 to buy if you want a versatile TT-02 that you can rally, drift and race and use some of the classic shorter shells such as the Zackspeed Capri. This is version builds on the TT-02 R and adds even more features. The three key additions are the upper adjustable arms.

These allow you to change the camber settings (0-2 degrees) to ensure better cornering performance. It also comes with oil filled gear differentials. These provide more tuning possibilities and are found in all of the top end racing chassis. The final new part is the hardened blue chassis, this increases the stiffness of the chassis and will make the TT02 feel more responsive.This is a great option for anyone that wants a reliable, fun chassis to drive.

They handle great out of the box and even though it is adjustable, it is still quite contained.Tamiya 58600 TT-02 Type SThe TT-02 Type-S is the best base car if you want a race based TT02The TT02 Type-S chassis is made for those who want a TT02 for the track. It comes with TRF416 style reversible long suspension arms, FRP shock towers with a range of settings and a full set of ball bearings. If you want to buy a TT02 focused on racing then this is the one to buy to start out with, with many guys saying it performs well in VTA classes and USGT. I will do a separate guide on the TT02-S at some point in the future, as it has some unique traits.What you gain in racing prowess you will lose in versatility. The TT-02S will not allow you to change the ride height to be a rally car, it also does not have an option to have a short wheelbase to fit some of the cool shells such as the Capri or Suzuki SZ rally.So there you have it, there are a few types of TT02 to choose from now. For this guide I am going to show you how to make a base level TT-02 run as well as possible. Most of these tips are applicable to all of the cars but some obviously some will have a selection of the hop-ups mentioned (TT02R).

The TT02-S is quite different as it uses the TRF suspension parts to have longer arms so some parts relating to that will be different. If you have any questions please ask.Making 'The RC Racer' Race spec TT02. I got my bearings from the excellent, and as this is a race spec kit, I used their RCB bearings.

These are an excellent price option for racers, they are Abec 5 rated, so faster and smoother than std bearing sets whilst not as costly as the ceramic bearings that are also available. Just Search for RCB on the RC Bearings siteHigh Performance at a great price! RC Bearings High spec RCB Abec 5 bearingsA quick chat to Colin at RC bearings ensured that a set of these excellent bearings arrived for the TT02 to fit into the car. As an aside I fitted these into my car and I got a quicker lap time without any other modifications, that is testament to how good they are at reducing the drive train friction.Drive Train: Differentials. The base TT02 comes as standard with 2 differentials for both the front and rear of the car.

They are bullet proof and will last for ages. However when racing we want to be able to tune the diffs as they can change the handling characteristics of the car drastically.As a rule, when you run at the racetrack you want your front differential to be stiffer than the rear to ensure that the chassis handles well around the corner.The Tamiya 54875 Oil filled gear differential.The kit ones are not easily to fine tune.

So the easy option is to purchase the Tamiya In essence the sealed oil differential will allow you to easily tune the differential by adding different thickness oils. As it is sealed it will stay consistent once you find a setting you like. A good base oil setting for the rear is:3K oil in the rear for low /medium grip.5k oil in the rear for medium / high grip7k -10k for very high grip carpet.In the front I prefer a very stiff differential for more corner exit speed. So I would run 500K or higher. Although on small low grip tracks 50K is good.If you want another older tuning option there is the but I would go for the new Oil filled gear differential.Tune the standard Kit differentialAnother option is to add thick oils or grease to the plastic internals to change the spinning resistance.

Another good option for the front differential is the 42247 Tamiya gear differential putty.Tamiya 42247 Gear differential putty is my preferred option for a TT02 front diffThe putty is simple to use, just cut a two 2cm lengths and stick them on each of the two large bevel gears and squeeze them into the differential. This gives you an almost locked differential, but with just a slight amount of give which is great for the drive train. This is now my preferred tuning method for the front differential in any TT02.For the rear you want it much more free, you can try the car with the diff still dry, but if you want to stiffen it up a little, then use some Tamiya AW grease. I would just to a splodge the size of a pea in the diff cylinder at first, and try it out. It's much easier to add more than to remove this sticky grease, so just incrementally add it.Drive Train: Locked DiffAt the track some prefer a locked diff. On the TT02 there are no spools available, but you can achieve the same result by using the Tamiya 54649 Diff locking block.This fits in your differential case and makes it a spool.

These are lighter than the stock plastic versions (Saves 7 grams). This simply alone makes it a worthwhile upgrade as the rotating mass will be reduced, allowing the motor to be more efficient and help the car reach top speed quicker. We have more info inDrive Train:Wheel Hex'sEnsure that they are the clamp type hubs, not just metal versions of the plastic hex'sWhen racing I like to fit aluminium drive hex's. These make it easy to change the tyres and they are also do not get crushed against the inner knuckle like the plastic hex's. I would use 6mm thick 12mm wheel hex's if you are racing as that will give you extra track width. I also used the Tamiya wheel axle spacers to move the width out a little more if I needed it.Drive Train: Universal drive shaftsOnce you start running a thicker front diff, and especially a spool you will need to upgrade to front universals. SteeringThe stock TT02 does not have a lot of ways to adjust the toe in or out of the front and rear of the car.

These settings are useful to allow you to change how a car moves into a corner and along the straight. The base settings are very neutral, but once you get the TT02 on the track you will want to have more control to ensure the car feels planted all the way around the course.Before looking at individual parts, Tamiya make a great set that includes pretty much everything you need to improve the steering on the TT-02.The contents of 54752 Steering upgrade set.54752 Tamiya TT-02 Steering Upgrade Parts Set provides a great money saving way to improve the steering response of the TT02. These parts take out any slop and improve the response and strength of the steering assembly. The parts it includes are. Tamiya TT02 Steering Upgrade Parts Set (1Set). Aluminium Steering Arms(#54574) (2pcs). Aluminium Steering Posts (2pcs).

Steering Bridge(#54575) (1pc). Hi-Torque Servo Saver Black(#51000) (1pc). TT-02 Hi-Torque Servo Saver Horn (1pc)Now onto some of the individual parts. One cheap part that I would suggest though are these low friction step screws. They do make a difference on the steering and reduce some of the slop that you have with the basic kit set-up.

These are great and cost very little, however if you want to splash out then you can always have the following.Tip - If you have the TT02-D A parts the combination of the Low friction screw and these re-enforced Steering arms will be a significant upgrade, although if you want to go even further try the following.Steering: Adjustable front turnbuckles. The box stock TT02 has fixed length steering rods that are set to provide the the car with a mild understeer when on power. This is fine, but we ideally want to be able to adjust the front toe so that we can adjust the amount of bite into corners and straight line stability that front toe in or out can provide.

I like to set the car to have around 1 degree of toe out to help get the initial steering better.STEERING - Servo SaverLets just get to the point, If you want to race, pop the kit servo saver in the bin, it is made to soak large hits and protect a weak servo, so good if you are just bashing around. The problem is that you will have a very poor steering response as the saver spring is very weak.Contents of the 54799 TT02 Hi-torque servo saverI would use the 54799 Tamiya TT02 Hi-Torque Servo Saver - with Aluminium Horn it this gives you a firm servo saver that is still very effective against big hits. The alloy horn is the ideal height to get a good amount of throw on the TT02, it also has a nice bling factor.When using this servo saver you will need to replace the plastic fixed arm with an adjustable turnbuckle. The TT02 steering kit above includes all of this, otherwise buy the suitable connectors.STEERING - Tamiya 54575 TT02 Aluminium Steering Bridge & 54574 Aluminium Racing Steering set. This is the ultimate steering set, It will replace the plastic arms and will give you a ball raced steering setup that is very smooth and slop free.

These are what I run in my current race TT02.These two hop ups when combined provide a set-up that is much more akin to a proper touring car. I did find that I needed a few more 3mm shims to ensure there was no extra moment between the arms and the centre bridge. I used a couple of 0.3mm thick 3mm shims on each arm that connected to the steering bridge to take out the movement. Once these are installed you really do have a very smooth and slop free steering set-up.Steering TipThe TT02 has steering knuckles that have limiters fitted to restrict the amount of steering throw you can use.

You can trim these off the knuckle and have much more throw.Here you can see a front knuckle with no limiters, you can dremel these of the plastic kit hubs easilyNOTE- Obviously a good racer will try to avoid using maximum lock as you will be scrubbing speed, but having the range available is useful for some circuits. Many hop up aluminium front knuckles will not have these limiters on. You will also need to ensure that you use universal drive shafts in the front, as the kit std dogbones can fall out if you have too much steering throw.Steering: Rear Toe inThe std TT02 has a 1 degree of rear toe in, this is acceptable with a mild motor, (Silvercan) but adding more rear toe in will allow you to have a car that is much more stable, especially when you start racing. There are a range of options from some of the manufacturers out there, although Tamiya only really has one at the moment.

The Tamiya 54549 Aluminium Rear upright's give you 2.5 degrees of rear toe in. The difference in handling once these are fitted is massive. The TT02R and TT02RR kits already comes with hop up rear hubs. These are 3.0 degrees and give you a lot of stability. The TT02-Type S has rear toe in build in because of the lower suspension blocks.The parts are great quality, and you can flip them over to change the ride height for the rally or onroad set-up. I run this amount of rear toe in on my TRF418 in 17.5 blinky and it works well for me, and again on the TT02 the car just felt much more stable at all parts of the track. The only shame is that they are quite expensive, I hope Tamiya will bring a range of plastic ones out in the future, plastic is fine on my TRF so I am sure it will be perfect on the TT02.Steering - Hard Lower DeckOne of the more recent parts that has been released is the TT02 hard lower deck.

It is available in three colours Black (Tamiya 54926), Blue (Tamiya 47339) or White (Tamiya 47340). The carbon upper deck makes the chassis much stiffer. This improves steering response even further. It also has a handout transponder mount and an option for additional mounts that can stiffen the front of the chassis for even more response on super high grip carpet., and it can be ordered viaSteering Conclusion With the above steering modifications the car is now much more planted on the track. I have a full range of steering lock, and there is no slop along the steering assembly, ensuring the car can run straight and true.

(Its as good as my Yokomo BD7 / 418 regarding slop)I can also now adjust the front arms to tune the car to have more bite (More toe out, or less bite into a corner). Gearing Options: Tamiya high speed gear setI did not use the included Spur, I used a selection of RW racing 64dp gearsThe high speed gear set comes with a spur gear holder, This is something that you could never do with the TT01 and this is an important part for making the car more adjustable. This is great news and you can now use just about any std 4 hole spur gear.Note, the High speed gear set comes with a 68t spur gear in the kit standard 0.6 Mod. If you want to keep the std motor mount then you need to keep running the 0.6 mod spurs and pinions.

You can buy a smaller Tamiya 64t spur separately (Tamiya 51396), which when coupled with a 29t pinion will give you a F.D.R of 5.74 which is not bad for 13.5 blinky.For the race car I do not want to use the kit motor mount as I want more flexible gearing options, I use 64dp with all my onroad cars so I swapped them out for one of my RW Racing superlite v2 spurs. You can use any pitch gears you want.All fitted ready to be installedGearing options: Adjustable mountThe Yeah Racing TT02 adjustable mount is very cool, and when coupled up with the facility to mount any spur it gives you the same freedom to adjust your gearing as any high end chassis.It not only allows the freedom to gear your car how you want, but also acts as a heat sinkThe motor mount is well built and not only allows you to easily and precisely set a wide range of gear meshes it also acts as a heat sink. SuspensionThere are some limitations on the suspension for the TT02. Although the following will help you make the most of the car and will ensure you notice a difference in how the car handles the track surface and is able to respond to it.Suspension - ShocksMost TT02's come with friction shocks, you need to replace these straight away if you want to race. There are a lot on the market, you can go the expensive route with the Tamiya TRF shocks. These are the best shocks out there. The std TRF ones (Part no 42102) are recommended as they will give you a lot of range to tune the car.I use Tamiya TRF shocks, (Part no 42102) the Tamiya 42273 short shocks are 4mm shorter than the std TRF shocks, and I would not suggest them.Others use the Tamiya mini CVA shocks.

These are much cheaper and they are also very good quality, you can also find other options available from 3Racing etcFor ride height I run 5mm at the front and 5.2 mm at the rear. I use the spring collars to get the height I need, and sometimes even unscrew the shock bottoms a little.Suspension - Shock springsI use the Tamiya Touring car springs as I just have loads of them.

As a starting set-up I use Tamiya Blue at the front and Yellow at the rear, although if racing on carpet I use Tamiya white at the front and Tamiya blue on the rear.Suspension - DroopDroop is a useful tuning aid, and one of the most powerful ones. Your race car is always moving weight forwards and backwards depending on the acceleration and braking. Adjusting droop can influence how the car will behave and how much movement it will take when shifting the weight around.Unfortunately the TT02 does not easily allow you to set droop as there are no downstop screws on the arms. However you can easily still measure droop by lifting each end of your car up from a rested position and seeing how far it moves before the wheels lift of the ground.To adjust the amount of droop, you will need to add / remove some shims to the shock internals if you want to adjust the amount of movement of the suspension. Its a pain, but once you get a setting you like for your track you will be ok to leave it alone. You can then also move the bottom shock end or spring collar to tweak the movement.Suspension - Free movementThe TT02 uses trapped balls in the front suspension arms, these are ok but the plastic ones can start to bind once dirt gets into them. They are smooth and really help the arms move freely.The coated balls ensure that the suspension moves smoothly at the front of the car.Also the other thing that I did was to shim the suspension arms to remove all of the slop.

X Fusion 02 Rc Manual Online

This makes a very big impact when trying to make a car that will be a good race car. The basic car is very neutral with quite a lot of slop, but when you want to ensure that your 1 degree of toe out at the front will help you get more initial steering you do not want the slop in the arms to amplify that as they move around. Shimming takes this out of the equation.Shim the upper and lower arms to give your TT02 a set of suspension arms that feel like a top end TCSo once I used shims to take out all of the slop on the arms (remember they have to move freely, so if they stop moving remove a shim, its better to move freely and have some slop than no slop at all)Once this is done, I have a car that has suspension arms that have the same movement as much higher specification kits.Suspension - Shock towerI used the re-enforced shock towers that come with the TT02-D A-parts.

These are just a little stiffer and will be less likely to flex under load. Although the TT02 kit parts actually seem quite strong.Also for a std set-up I have the front shocks mounted to the outer hole and the rear shocks on the inner hole.Suspension - Camber adjustment.54874 is a great hop up to get more corner performance. Weight SavingThe TT02 is quite light, but saving weight allows you to be able to balance the chassis better as you can decide where to place the weight in the car. The BRCA requires the car to be a minimum weight of 1350g You want to be as close to that as possible to ensure that you are able to compete in stock classes such as 17.5 blinky.Weight Saving: ScrewsSimple, but also costly. You can replace the kit screws with Titanium and Aluminium screws to loose approximately 18g of weight. This will also give you hex head screws. The best kits are the ones by Hiro Seiko or Square.

This is a luxury upgrade but one that can help reduce weightWeight Saving: Rear bumper holder lower and upper. Here is the final result, much lighter and easier for me to get to the shock tops to change the postions if I want to.Weight saving: Battery strap replacementI also replaced my battery strap with a carbon one from the TA05 that I had in my spares box.

Although you can go further and remove this all together and dremel a small slot either side of your TT02 battery compartment and use battery tape (info courtesy of Addicted 2 Blue):Addicted2blues Battery tape solution, you can also remove the plastic battery posts.Weight Saving: Electric placementIf you are able to use a shorty pack then there are some really interesting options. The TT02R is a great kit, and it has a lot of very useful hop-ups.The rear hubs will make the car much more stable and easy to drive and the car also has bearings and oil shocks (along with some other nice parts).It does not have an esc or a body so you will have to factor the price of those into the equation.From an assembly point of view the kit is still good for a beginner. The only part that is more involved is building the oil shocks. These are still not too hard to build and the Tamiya Instructions are excellent. Other than that the kit is just as straightforward to build as the std TT02.The TT02S is more complex to build and is really just aimed for those who want to do club racing. It does not let you use the shorter wheelbase shells and you cannot set it up for rally in the same way that you can do this with a the std TT02 and TT02R kits.Let me know if you have any more questions.

Thanks for that. If you want to do pure club racing I would suggest the Sakura XI sport as it has more tuning options as a kit standard. (The BSR BT-4 is also a good car which I reviewed recently)The TT02-S has more tuning options as standard (it is ball raced, it has oil shocks and you can change the front and rear camber)The gearing options are easier with the Sakura / BT4 as you will need a low FDR in 17.5 class racing. You can do this with a few hop-ups for the TT02 but again that is extra cost.The tt02's strength is it's versatilely and the great parts support. But if you want a car just to race I would look at the Sakura XI or similar. Afternoon,Thanks for your quick reply! I was so despondent I went and did some grocery shopping!

So I checked what you recommended I check and everything was as it should be. So I loosened the screws on the motor mount, re-tightened, refitted, recovered and it has excellent meshing! Weird, but perhaps somehing was just slightly out? It now has great meshing with all holding screws and the gear cover attached. So, thanks for your help. I'd previously done all the above, except checking the mount, and even though the screws were in the right position, it was worth taking it off and refiting.Really appreciate your help and your quick response!Many thanks indeed!Ed. Thanks for that:) I've always wanted to travel to Columbia.Here are the main TT-02 to type-S conversion partsTamiya 54634 - Suspension metal parts setTamiya 54632 Front carbon Type S shock towerTamiya 54633 Rear Carbon Type S shock towerand also to get droop settings sorted you can getTamiya 54638 - Steel rebound stopper (You will need two of these as they only come as a pair).

You can only fit the rebound stopper on this steel suspension set.You will also need the suspension arms, hubs and turnbuckles. As you can see the parts are available but it might be as cheap to buy a TT02-SI am doing a conversion soon, I just need more time for the article. HiI've finally paint the car body and got the TT-02 (Type R) entirely fonctional. But I have few questions, could you please give me a look?1- I would like to add more track width, because the stock track width with a 190mm width (this is must the most narrow common 1/10 scale car body?) make the car look ugly. If I turn to Tamiya Hup up options, I need to buy 4 parts of TT02-D C parts just to get the long wheel axe (only one wheel axe are long in one single C part).The trouble is, I have installed (upgraded) a universal front drive shaft, and there seems not longer wheel axe for that.2- Is there any larger (I mean bigger diameter) tyres for this 1/10 scale car? I have been search a lot and looked through many articles on Amazon and the most common diameter is 64 mm, is there anything like 68 mm (just like the real true scale race car do?

688mm) if you know?Many Thanks in advance. The TT02D and the TT02R are very similar in drive train. The D comes with drift tyres and the R has standard onroad tyres.The R has many more hop-ups and it would probably be the best one to buy.

If you want to drift it you could buy a set of drift tyres and it would drift the same as the D kit.You can go further and buy the Tamiya 54649 Diff lock block and fit it in your rear diff. That will make it more prone to drift.For circuit you could run the diff locker in the front and that will help you get out of corners faster, although it will take a little bit of your steering away from the corner entry. Glad you like the review and guide. Takes a big chunk out of my spare time doing this site. For shims, there is not any set that I am aware off that does a range of sizes. I usually just has a few of the Tamiya shim sets.

Each set has 3 bags containing different thicknesses of the shim (0.3mm, 0.2mm and 0.1mm).For the TT02, you want 5mm shim for the arms. That is the main one. The rest are less important, but 3mm, 4mm and 6mm are useful sets to get. Although if I was to buy just one set to start off with then get the 5mm Tamiya shims (part no 53587). Hi I just finished building my tt02-d (first build in 15 years) and I am having a problem with the steering which seem to be constantly steering slightly right. Its the same on the ground or up in the air and you can see it quite easily, I noticed some of the photos in this guide show a similar situation where you can see the steering arms when connected to the servo are off to one side.

Is this normal? I have tried the normal stuff like making sure its set straight and adjusting the trim but its not helping at all and I am at a loss. Thanks in advance.

Mornin’ all.I’m based in France and ride with my local club, “les castors grimpeurs” (the climbing beavers!). We’re near Versailles and our outings are mostly forest-based with a sandstone background but with far more uppy and downy than you’d expect in the Sun King’s back garden!

That said, every summer I holiday in the Alps at Aussois (which has a World Cup DH run, yes). I’m currently on a Breezer Team Lightning Team 29, which I like a lot but I’m finding I’m more into cocking about than gurning up hills euro-marathon style. The average age of my club is about 50 and whilst most of them are very experienced mountain bikers I have the extra energy to be popping around either side of the trail whilst they keep it steady and serious (that said, there is a 58 yr old I can’t beat over any distance!). I also find myself having to brake a lot on descents as I don’t know the trails well enough to go first and even if I go last I tend to catch up in no time. I don’t compete but at 35 years old I want to push my riding style whilst my knees hold out (running already forbidden:.

In brief, I’m certainly still very very amateur and probably needing a good smash to calm me down.I run a Cane Creek suspension post as I just can’t take the hardtail beating any more, which of course stops me using a dropper post. Thus I’m wanting to move to a full suspension, which I’ve never had (excepting a 2nd-hand 1997 Trek Y22 in my mum’s barn) with mid-travel (140-160mm) and also drop down a wheelsize or two so I fail my wheelies less badly. I’m not rich but I’m a saver, so it’s not the overall cost that matters (within reason) but the cheaper a build is the sooner I can have it. I’m not asking for bike advice specifically but I’m looking at the Bird Aeris, Banshee Rune/Spitfire, YT Capra, Canyon Spectral/Strive, Cotic Rocket (by the time I’ve saved).

My question to you, which I could never express correctly on the French forums, is do I really need more than an x-fusion shock and fork set up? I can read all the reviews of Pikes etc but the detail doesn’t really mean much to me. I am not blind to the feeling of my current RS Reba and know how to adjust my sag etc but is there anyway in which x-fusion is really going to hold me, an amateur, back? The cost difference between x-fusion and the more upmarket competition probably equates to 2 or 3 months more saving, which I’m prepared to do if it’s really worth it.

Would a premium-ish frame like the Spitfire be totally wasted without the Cane Creek shock? Ditto for the others but of course you don’t get the choice for Canyon.A bit rambling but I hope you get the idea.Confused, frustrated and sore-buttocked of Versailles. I’ve used X-fusion on both my NukeProof Mega and my On One 29er, the Mega has a Vector HLR Air shock and a pair of Vengeance 170mm HLR Air Forks, both are superb and far better value than the previous units(Fox Float RP3 and Float 36 160mm), the 29er had 120mm Slide’s.Personally I cant fault them, and after my experiences with them a few of my riding mates have swapped over to them. I certainly don’t view them as poorer alternatives to the more mainstream choices, just better value for the same perfomance (if not better). Whitestone – MemberI’ve X-Fusion forks on my hardtail and they are fine. There was a bit of stiction to begin with but that disappeared after a month or so of use.I’ve got Slides on mine.

I’d had Reba’s on my previous 2 bikes.I like the fact that I never have to think about the Slides while out riding. Where I often felt the need to tweak something on the Reba.That said, I have an issue in that if I leave the bike to stand overnight or even if I’ve ridden early morning and then go out in the evening, I need to do a few ‘full body weight’ pushes to free the fork up.Once that is done they are fine. It’s like breaking an air lock or something.At first I was told it’d go I’m time. It hasn’t.Then to try fork juice to cure it.

No change.Now I’m told it’s normal? I’ve had both x fusion sweeps and the o2 rcx shock. They are good value for the money. I still have the sweeps on the front of my bike.One thing that I found was that the compression damping was quite firm on the shock, even with lever turned to the minimum setting.This is not a huge deal, but I found that the damping on the fork was not as firm and so the setup was not my ideal preference.The sweeps can have quite a lot of stiction out of the box and a number of people I’ve met have not liked them and assumed they are harsh (they take longer to bed in the rockshox or fox) but if you give them enough time they become really plush and are a great fork for the money. The shock also takes longer to bed in than other brands.They don’t have the Tuneability of the pike and can be a bit prone to diving when riding slow steep stuff, but the RL2 ‘mid valve’ works amazingly well when going fast and through rough stuff. If the sweep had adjustable low speed compression like rockshox MoCo it would be pretty much perfect.I’ve ridden pikes and there is not a huge amount in it between the two forks in terms of performance considering the difference in price.Unless you are like a lot of tuneability and are quite particular about your suspension setup, they are good products and no they won’t hold you back. They don’t have the Tuneability of the pike and can be a bit prone to diving when riding slow steep stuff, but the RL2 ‘mid valve’ works amazingly well when going fast and through rough stuff.

X Fusion 02 Rl Air

If the sweep had adjustable low speed compression like rockshox MoCo it would be pretty much perfect.that echoes my thoughts on my Slant. If I want to run it so that it’s working as you’d expect, it gets way too divey when on the brakes or proper steep riding. I compromise by adding a little more air pressure (2psi makes enough of a difference) to hold them up in this situation, but it does take away from their bump eating abilities. That echoes my thoughts on my Slant. If I want to run it so that it’s working as you’d expect, it gets way too divey when on the brakes or proper steep riding.

I compromise by adding a little more air pressure (2psi makes enough of a difference) to hold them up in this situation, but it does take away from their bump eating abilities.Yes, I do the same, but then I typically run a bit less sag on my fork than most people anyway, so doesn’t bother me too much.I think this is where the pike is better, but considering it is quite a bit more expensive it’s not something I think is necessarily worth the money.I think they missed a trick by choosing a lock out rather that adjustable low speed compression. I’ve never used the lock out, but a tad more low speed compression would be great.Through the rough fast stuff I don’t think there is really anything between the two forks, although admittedly I haven’t spent a huge amount of time on the pike. My Velvets were a fit and forget item and felt stiff and reasonably well damped, much impressed for the price.I sold them thinking I was splitting the whole bike and having to give up biking for a while, have just installed the best forks ever (Bos Deville) and can confirm, if that they are the best forks ever ridden, and I dialled them in easily enough over 1 or 2 rides.I would say go X-fusion then if you think try booking a test ride or try your mate’s other forks i.e. Pikes/36’s etc and if you feel the difference again then go for it.IMO those of us that can feel the difference and know what they want from a fork and can afford the best, the BOS is worthwhile by a million miles.Can you tell I am happy 😀. The one to watch out for is the new HLR Roughcut version of the sweep. This has 16 clicks of low and high speed compression damping adjustment, taking you from next to nothing to mega slow.Also worth noting for those finding the fork a bit divey, you can add oil (float fluid etc.) to the positive air spring in lieu of tokens easy enough.

X Fusion 02 Rc Manual Pdf

Does the same job, and because the fork uses a coil spring negative, you wont fill the negative chamber full of oil (which would suck). Probably go in 5ml increments and see how you get on.